World's 50 Best 2013 - Style over Substance?

As with any restaurant list, the World’s 50 Best has its fair share of critics but aside from the Michelin results, it is one of our industry’s most eagerly anticipated awards.

Unfortunately, this year I found the list slightly surreal. Whilst I believe that El Cellar Can Roca is a worthy title holder which has rightfully earned its place, there are many others which seem to have come from nowhere. 

As a chef, proud to have spent years training in some of the UK’s top kitchens I actually find it quite insulting that the likes of Restaurant Sat Bains, The Square, Hibiscus and L’Enclume don’t make the list. 

In my book, the powerhouse of great cuisine has always been Europe. It concerns me that in a bid to open up in new markets, The World’s 50 Best list is neglecting our culinary heritage which was about provenance, quality and skill rather than wizardry, strangely named dishes and surprise. 

I don’t doubt that there are fabulous restaurants in Brazil, Mexico and China but I’d like to know which criteria are used for restaurants in these countries to earn a place on the list.  As emerging markets, their culinary culture is less well known and as such is likely to have the ‘excitement’ factor.  However, it isn’t realistic to expect Restaurant Magazine readers to travel to Brazil just to dine at the sixth best restaurant in the world. 

I’m lucky to have dined in top restaurants in many countries but one of the most  memorable meals I’ve enjoyed recently was at L’Enclume. Quite frankly I’m stunned that it doesn’t get a mention. Does the fact that one of our most impressive, innovative restaurants isn’t considered worthy of the list mean that the UK is once again falling behind?  Or is Cumbria not exotic enough a destination for the judges?

It's time to get real

On Monday, I was lucky to be among the Bord Bia guests at a special lunch reception at the Irish Embassy.  The purpose of the lunch was to remind guests of the quality of Irish grass fed beef and to celebrate Team UK’s fantastic achievement in the Bocuse d’Or.

I was particularly interested in a speech by one of France’s most celebrated butchers, Jean Denaux, who exclusively imports Irish Hereford Beef and sells it to some of the country’s best restaurants.  His knowledge of every stage of the supply chain is impressive and it is credit to the Irish farmers for winning over such a genuine and influential ambassador. 

I’m a proud member of the Scotch Beef Club and it is always good to witness excellent examples of husbandry such as those practised under the Scotch Beef and Bord Bia labels.  However, as has been proven recently, in this country there is still a lack of transparency when it comes to labelling our produce.  ‘Outdoor reared’, ‘Red Tractor’, ‘Farm Fresh’. ‘Freedom Food’ - all give the impression of higher standards but vary significantly in terms of farming practice and the quality of the product.  

Many chefs these days know what to look for in the raw product but if you don’t have established relationships with suppliers, selecting the right meat can be a challenge. In the US, the meat sold under the USDA scheme has been meticulously graded not only to reassure the customer that the product is correctly labelled but to reassure of its quality.   This means that when a chef buys Prime Cut Meat, he or she knows that they are paying a premium for a young, well-fed beef cattle which has plenty of marbling and will be juicy and tender as a result.  

In my view, only when a similar system of such clarity and transparency is implemented in the UK, we will truly have the confidence that customers deserve.  In fact, I urge all members of the British meat industry to join forcing in reviewing existing processes and to come back with a clear system which makes it easier for chefs and customers to buy quality, fully traceable meat. 

Is Luke Thomas a case of too much too young?

It appears that Luke Thomas created a social media storm following the broadcast of the BBC 3 documentary, Britain’s Youngest Head Chef last night. However, love him or hate him, there’s no denying that the young chef has been taken on a ride. 

Mark Fuller might well say that Luke spoke like a 30 year old but knowledge of food and running a kitchen is not something that you’re born with.  As in any profession, I truly believe that to become a master of your trade a chef needs ten years’ experience working in a commercial kitchen.  

To me, Luke’s story is a by-product of our celebrity-obsessed society and despite his apparent maturity, his hunger for fame and success has been exploited by someone pulling the strings for his own gain. 

Luke’s desire for fame and ambition to win a Michelin star display some of the worst traits of our trade.  A chef sets up a restaurant because firstly it’s his or her profession and secondly because he/ she needs to make money.  At Simpsons, we’re very lucky to have Michelin recognition but it’s even more important to be recognised by our thousands of customers. Of course, we appreciate the positive power of media coverage but what use is that when the restaurant closes down?

Luke won the Futurechef competition, which is a fantastic award for young people. However, I have a chef in my kitchen who won a the best commis prize in the world’s most prestigious competition and he’s still working under half a dozen others. At 23, Kristian has ambition but he also has a team around him, showing him new skills, challenging him and mentoring him so that in a few year’s time he will be ready to head up his own kitchen. 

As a long standing governor of University College Birmingham, I’ve seen many potential young culinary stars come and go but without exception, those who have made it to the top have done their time. It’s not easy being a chef and to be considered a true talent you need to earn the respect of your peers and colleagues - which does not happen overnight.  I’m sure that Luke has bags of talent but at the age of 19 he just doesn’t have the credibility.